Balandra Beach, a stunning beauty.
By Arthus. • Posted March 11 • 2024.
The term "hidden gem" is often overused when we talk about travel, but in this case, I believe it's a fair description for Balandra Beach. It's a public beach, of course, but access isn't exactly open. In fact, for some time now, to get there, you need to arrive very early in the morning, line up in your car, and wait for limited access to be granted to a certain number of visitors each day. This happens in two shifts, one in the morning and one in the afternoon, meaning if you didn't make it in the morning, you can try again in the afternoon. These measures are in place to protect its incredible natural beauty, which had been threatened by the sheer number of people from all around the world wanting to witness its stunning allure at the same time. Moreover, to get to the beach, you have to drive for about 20 minutes through the highway, finding Balandra nestled among hills and surrounded by them. It's literally hidden, unlike other beaches in La Paz, which are visible from a great distance. Let's then take a look at a description of the beach considered by many to be the most beautiful in the world.
Where is Balandra Beach Located?
Balandra Beach is located to the east of La Paz, about a 20-minute drive on the Pichilingue-Balandra-Tecolote highway (which is in excellent condition), following the signs until you reach a fork in the road. To the left, you head towards Balandra, and to the right, continue driving for about 5 more minutes to reach Tecolote Beach. Once there, as I've already mentioned, people and families line up in their cars, patiently waiting for access to the beach (this happens around 8 am, but please, arrive there by 7:15 a.m. at the latest to ensure your access, and be patient). It's common for someone to come by and give instructions on how to take care of nature and precautions regarding stingrays (especially if it's their season). Don't worry, the ones that reach Balandra are always very tiny. The big ones are only in the deep open sea, never on the beach.
Welcome to Balandra Beach (Photo by us).
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To get to Balandra, the best way is by car, whether it's your own or a rental. Of course, it's also possible to get there by bus but honestly, arriving by car is more convenient and doesn't depend on the bus schedule, especially when returning to La Paz. You can also pay for a tour that will pick you up and drop you off, including a guide who will show you around. However, it's not my personal favorite option. I feel that you don't truly get to know the place as you might have wanted, and you always have to be mindful of the schedule. It's important to mention that the beach is truly in the middle of nowhere; that is, there are no Ubers nearby, no public transportation, no buildings, houses, or anything at all, really nothing, and that's of course part of its beauty. So to get to it and leave, it's always better to do so by car.
If you're coming from the airport and can't wait to experience Balandra, rent a car and you'll be about a half-hour away from discovering the incredible beauty of this true hidden gem, as long as you arrive during the visiting hours I already mentioned. Sure, a taxi from the airport can take you, but it would be very expensive to have it wait all day and then take you to your hotel or Airbnb and again, it's not advisable to rely on the bus; I say this not because the bus is a bad option, uncomfortable, or unsafe, not at all! It's simply to be able to take your time and if you end up staying late enjoying Balandra, the bus won't leave you stranded and you won't have difficulties getting back to the city. If you are a punctual person who doesn't mind sharing the ride back with others, then the bus is ideal for you.
For those with RVs, it's important to mention that all cars, buses, and others stay in a parking lot just a few steps from the beach, but definitely not on it. This means we have to carry our things to the beach and, of course, take care to leave it clean and not litter. Naturally, there are trash bins available to help us with this. So, don't expect to park your RV right on the beachfront; this is not that kind of beach.
Balandra Beach Restrictions
I think it's important to mention the existing restrictions for accessing this incredible beach for two reasons: firstly, to explain what these restrictions are, and secondly, to understand why they exist.
The restrictions at Balandra Beach are as follows: Only about 200 people are allowed access per shift, and there are two shifts—one that starts at 8 a.m. and the other around 2 p.m. The first shift must leave, so it's not possible to stay all day at this beach (I recommend driving another 5 minutes to reach Tecolote, where access is unrestricted, like the rest of the beaches here in La Paz). Therefore, there are often long lines of cars, trucks, and buses trying to gain access to Balandra (patience is required). Government personnel approach the vehicles to explain how to take care of the environment and preserve the natural beauty of the site and, as I mentioned earlier, how to stay alert and avoid a bad encounter with a stingray hidden in the sand. The authorities ask for basic things: do not litter, pick up everything you bring, and respect the natural elements present at Balandra. Interestingly, when the morning shift ends, you leave in your car and see long lines of vehicles and buses waiting to enter Balandra again.
These restrictions exist because the beach was receiving too many visitors, which compromised its integrity (at least that's what we were told), and damaged the natural environment. I truly believe this; I mean, everyone here knows that some thoughtless tourists would climb the iconic stone mushroom to take photos or just for fun, and they did it so often that it eventually broke off from its base, to the extent that it had to be reinforced with concrete. There could be several other examples that led the government to implement these restrictions. At this point, let me say that I knew Balandra when there were no restrictions and it was open access, so my opinion is divided. I understand and support the intention to protect it because it truly is a natural wonder of incredible beauty, a real treasure of La Paz. However, on the other hand, the restrictions mean fewer people can experience it, and perhaps some might even miss out on this opportunity. Maybe placing surveillance inside to prevent damage to the environment could be more effective (the Mexican Navy is already there), I don't know, but I do miss, like most of us living here, enjoying the day at Balandra without restrictions.
Balandra's "Hongo de Piedra". (Photo by us).
The Unique Landscape of Balandra Beach
If Balandra Beach is a true gem, it's hidden, literally—a hidden gem. I'm not exaggerating when I say that upon discovering it, the beauty of the place will take your breath away. The clarity of its waters, the softness of its sand, the colors of the sea that shift from a gentle green to a deep blue, the presence of the hills that surround and protect it, and of course, its mushroom-shaped rock, which is truly a naturally formed mushroom-shaped rock.
When you park your car and get out, two things happen: first, the beauty of the place hits you, no matter how many times you've seen it (as is my case), and second, you immediately feel the heat, which is why the first recommendation to truly appreciate the natural beauty of Balandra is to bring a hat, sunglasses, and plenty of fluids to stay hydrated. Leaving the car, there are some stairs that lead to the beach, which at that part has a few (very few, in my opinion) palapas for shade, which are hard to come by and only those first in the earlier mentioned car line manage to secure. Of course, it's possible to bring (and we all do) our own umbrellas for protection from the sun and to enjoy some cool shade. I know there are places where many people don't take much care from the sun and can do without shade, but believe me when I say, La Paz is NOT one of those places, so always at the beaches, it's necessary to have a place to shelter from the sun.
To appreciate the beauty of Balandra Beach, there are many activities to partake in, but perhaps we can divide them into two basic categories: the beach or climbing the hill to enjoy the stunning views the height affords. In my particular case and that of my family, we always prefer the beach, which is gorgeous, truly beautiful. I mean, when you enter the water, you can see the bottom clearly, watch the fish swimming, the sea cucumbers, and practically no rocks on the bottom, making it pleasant to walk in and refresh yourself in its waters. And indeed, walking is the thing, since its depth is so shallow over a large area that, in addition to being beautiful, it makes it supremely safe for people of all ages, especially children. Moreover, after immersing yourself in its waters and looking up, you see the beauty of the landscape, the tranquility and sound of the wind, the smiles of your family, and you know you chose an excellent destination, whose beauty surpasses anything you might have heard about it.
I know expressing and conveying it through words is challenging, but that's why I've included some photos taken by me, so you can better understand the natural beauty of the place. And yet, photos are not enough to show the magnitude of this magnificent and dazzling beach.
A day in Balandra Beach. (Photo by us).
Exploring the Crystal-Clear Waters of Balandra
Once in the waters of Balandra, there are many activities that can be done. Of course, the main one is swimming and enjoying the coolness of the water, but there are other activities at this beach. Let's look at some of them:
- Snorkeling:
Snorkeling is almost a must in this place, where the clarity and tranquility of the water allow for the full appreciation of the marine life in its splendor. To do it safely, please don't forget to take the necessary precautions, especially in the deeper areas of the beach.
- Kayaking:
It's possible to rent kayaks to explore the entire beach, for about $25 dlls or $400 pesos an hour. I particularly like to use them to get closer to the stone mushroom, but touring the beach by kayak is undoubtedly an experience to consider. Of course, don't forget that it's a tiring activity, especially if you're not used to exercising much. On the other hand, it's a very safe activity, always with your life jacket and using common sense. Kayaking is something you will greatly enjoy appreciating and having fun at Balandra Beach.
- Swimming:
Basically, that's what most people go there for, to enjoy swimming at a beautiful beach. It's possible to swim in the shallow part of Balandra and go out to slightly deeper areas, and even to really deep areas, but I don't recommend the latter. The beach is too beautiful to focus on the depths for too long.
- Paddleboarding:
Not my personal favorite, but Balandra is a great place to do it.
- Climbing the hill:
Climbing the hill is an experience for those who like hiking and allows access to its summit, from where the views are truly incredible, not only of Balandra but also of the Sea of Cortez and Espiritu Santo Island. Incredible views, without a doubt.
- Seeing the stone mushroom:
Seeing the stone mushroom is one of the classic tourist activities in La Paz, and it is truly a rock shaped like a mushroom, formed over thousands of years by the tide. Currently, after the abuse by some people climbing on the rock to take pictures, the mushroom had to be reinforced with concrete, but it is still incredible to see it in person. In fact, there are long lines to see it, which is why I prefer to use a kayak to approach it from the sea and appreciate it without problems.
- Relaxing and contemplating the beauty:
It's also advisable to take some time to sit under a palapa or umbrella, choose a drink, and simply appreciate the beauty and calm of Balandra Beach. You will simply feel the peace that makes this city an unmissable destination.
It's easy to notice that, unlike other beaches, there are no motorized activities in Balandra, and even yachts can't get too close, all in the effort to protect the natural environment of the place, and this is something that should be valued. Of course, in La Paz, there are motorized water activities, but at another beach. Balandra Beach is one of the most beautiful places your eyes can see, and much of this is due to the unaltered beauty of the place.
Kayaking is a must if you are visitng Balandra Beach. (Photo by us).
Exploring at Balandra Beach. (Photo by us).
Best Time to Visit Balandra Beach
If you think that because Balandra Beach is in Mexico, it's advisable to visit it all year round (like Cancun), think again. La Paz is in the north of Mexico, and in winter the water isn't cold, it's icy. It's not a good idea to swim during the colder months at the beaches of La Paz, but it's always a good idea to visit them and appreciate their natural beauty.
In summer, on the other hand, it's very hot, but the water is delicious, at a very pleasant temperature that allows you to cool off and enjoy the summer. Perhaps not everyone can enjoy La Paz in the summer, it's very, very hot, and the sensation can be overwhelming for some, especially if it's their first visit. I suppose the best time to visit is in fall, the heat has decreased, and the water is still at a pleasant temperature, allowing you to enjoy all the activities we've already mentioned.
Let me share a story... the first time I visited La Paz and Balandra in particular, I came in April and was one of the few people swimming. The water was cold! Not icy, but after the first plunge, I got out and coughed from how cold the water was. I had a lot of fun, of course, and began to fall in love with La Paz, but boy, it was cold. This happened because I simply thought that in Mexico, all the beaches are warm all year round. The people of La Paz know (we know, as paceños) that there are months when it's better to just enjoy the natural beauty of the beaches, and this is especially true for Balandra.
What to Bring to Balandra Beach?
As I've mentioned, Balandra is all about enjoying its unspoiled beauty, the calm of its crystal-clear waters, and soft sand, so the facilities available are limited to eco-friendly public restrooms, trash containers, some palapas, and that's about it. I mean, there are no restaurants, much less hotels nearby, so it's advisable to bring whatever we need in terms of food, drink, and sun protection to spend a pleasant day at one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. It's also not possible to bring a grill and start a charcoal fire, so I always recommend bringing snacks and enough drinks, and once our turn to enjoy Balandra ends (around 2pm), then it's time to look for food in La Paz, or at its neighboring beach, Tecolote, where there are restaurants, drinks, and motorized water activities. I can't say it enough, Balandra Beach is about unaltered natural beauty, and we should feel deeply grateful and lucky to be able to interact with that beauty.
Next, a list of basic items to bring to Balandra Beach:
- Enough snacks:
Preferably chips or items that won't melt in the heat. (If you decide to bring sausages, sandwiches, or similar, keep them in a cooler)
- More than enough drinks:
This is to ensure a good time and to stay hydrated at all times, remember the heat in La Paz.
- Sun protection:
I mean, as soon as you leave the hotel or house, it's necessary to wear sunscreen, but it's also essential to bring it to the beach, where it doesn't hurt to apply a bit more for protection. In addition to the umbrella, sunglasses, and a hat, not a cap, a hat, to properly shield ourselves.
- A blanket:
A blanket to sit on or to place our things on.
- Chairs:
I repeat, there's nothing there beyond the palapas, so bringing folding chairs for everyone is a must.
- Arrive early:
Remember that there are restrictions on accessing Balandra in order to protect it, so I suggest you always arrive an hour or 45 minutes before the entry time of your shift. Keep in mind there are two shifts, one starting at 8 a.m. and the other at 2 p.m. Be patient while you wait; it will be worth it, believe me.
- Do not litter just because there isn't a bin on the beach:
There are disposal bins in the parking area for this purpose.
- Avoid taking your drinks or food into the water:
And especially avoid spilling them in it. Appreciate the clarity of Balandra's waters and keep them that way.
- The water is for enjoyment:
There are eco-friendly restrooms a few steps from the beach. For a few coins, you can use these without any issues.
- Do not disturb the fish:
It might seem unbelievable, but there are people who like to bother the fish, even trying to catch them (for what?), but it's the fish that are in their home, we are just visitors, so, enjoy watching them, don't try to touch them.
- Leave your spot as you found it:
If you find a clean and untouched spot, it's your obligation to leave it the same way.
- Respect the stone mushroom:
A few years ago, as I already mentioned, the mushroom had to be reinforced with concrete due to the disrespect of many people from all over the world who climbed on it for fun. Don't do it! Currently, there are people making sure this doesn't happen anymore.
- Be mindful of the tide:
The tide at Balandra rises during the day, so it's possible that in some areas, you might have to swim back when you arrived by walking. This happens more in the afternoon, but it's important to be alert to avoid an unnecessary scare.
- Be careful with stingrays:
Especially during stingray season, it's important to walk with care on the beach and follow the advice given when entering Balandra. If you see a dark spot on the bottom (which is very easy to see due to the clarity of the water), shuffle your feet, and the vibration of the movement will make the stingrays move to another side. (A stingray sting, of course, is not lethal, but it hurts a lot, so, watch out.)
I think it's important to emphasize that in Balandra, they don't rent chairs, tables, umbrellas, nor sell food and drinks like at other beaches, so bringing the items on the previous list is the minimum to spend a pleasant day with our family or friends.
A litle taste of Balandra (Video by us).
Eco-Friendly Tips for Visiting Balandra
I believe in this regard, we can mention that the best tip is common sense. Balandra Beach is a site greatly cherished by the people of La Paz and a source of pride because, generally, they take great care of the place, meaning they don't litter and keep it clean. So, at the very least, visitors should do the same. However, we can offer the following eco-friendly tips:
I'd like to mention that in the case of the tide, my first experience was exactly like this... we found a beautiful spot, close to the mushroom, under an opening in the hill, meaning we found a place with shade on the hill. It was beautiful, the water was cold as I mentioned, but beautiful. The situation occurred in the afternoon when the tide rose, and we had to return with the water up to our waist, where we had arrived by walking on the sand. Nothing to worry about, just need to be careful, and if not, return by swimming, HAHAHA.
My Own Experiences at Balandra
My experience in Balandra is first as a traveler and then as a resident of La Paz. The first as a traveler, it's a place that dazzles with its natural beauty, it was incredible to discover it, walk around, and kayak in it. Seeing that mushroom for the first time was something amazing. Seeing the deep part of Balandra, the pit, impressed me a lot, it's really deep and the blue is so intense that you see nothing but an abyss. I went with my parents, who had moved to La Paz a few years earlier and were proud to show me the place (as every person from La Paz is). As a traveler, I've visited many beaches, and believe me, this one is truly unique, but don't just take my word for it – come visit and let your own eyes and senses convince you.
Now, as a resident, I share the pride for that beach, and it's important to me that it's protected and maintains its unaltered natural beauty. I must confess that when they introduced restricted access some time ago, many of us didn't like the idea. I mean, when I first knew it, there was no restriction whatsoever, and it was possible to visit at any hour without waiting in line. I understand that the government's intention is to lessen the impact of too many people at once in such a beautiful and special place, which is why I can now better understand the reason for the access restrictions to Balandra Beach. But as a resident, I know I can go whenever I prefer, because I don't have just a few days to do so, so it's okay, the beach isn't going anywhere, and I can plan a visit on any day of the week. Another thing, I know sometimes there are people who seem to have no respect for Balandra, but as we say in La Paz... surely they're not from here, because anyone who is a resident of La Paz understands and takes care of the beauty of Balandra Beach.
Balandra is a true nature paradise. (Photo by us).
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Tastes of La Paz.