Discover La Paz...
By Arthus. • Posted April 11 • 2024.
The weather in La Paz, Mexico, is almost always warm, and I'd like to emphasize "almost always," because it's not like that every day of the year or at all hours. This is, of course, a city known for the beauty of its beaches and its rich marine biodiversity, which almost always means it's a place where the sun is always intense and the crystal-clear waters of its beaches are at a deliciously warm temperature for enjoying all year round, right? Wrong! La Paz in winter can be a cold city, and its waters so chilly that swimming in them without a wetsuit is not advisable. In spring, the cold lessens a bit, the water is less cold but the winds are very present and can make more than one person sick, because the sun also starts to feel stronger. How is this possible? Let's find out.
The city of La Paz is located in the northwest of Mexico, on the Baja California Peninsula, in the state of Baja California Sur (this can all be abbreviated as La Paz, BCS), meaning it's not even close to the world-famous Mexican Caribbean. In fact, it's closer to Los Angeles (1,072.6 miles) than to Cancun (2,041.204 miles). I mention this to provide context as to why La Paz's climate is unique among Mexican beach cities—perhaps more similar to the climate of Cabo—making this destination so important for marine biodiversity, which was highly praised by Jacques Cousteau. This is precisely because this unique climate allows for the existence of so much marine life in its waters.
So, La Paz enjoys a desert climate that always surprises many people due to its unique characteristics. As I already mentioned, and contrary to what most might expect from a beach city, La Paz doesn't have the typical humid tropical climate but rather a mix of dry heat for most of the year, with relatively low humidity. This translates into sunny days and clear skies, which allow for the enjoyment of its stunning natural landscapes and outdoor activities, considering also that it hardly ever rains here.
During the summer months, temperatures can get quite high, sometimes reaching over 104°F (40°C), which leads locals to make the most of the early mornings, and evenings, for their activities. However, during the winter months, temperatures can drop significantly, especially during the night and early morning. And although obviously, this city is not considered cold by the standards of areas like the States or Canada, the cooler temperatures do require residents to wear a jacket, which would be unthinkable in summer (truly, it would be impossible!).
The waters of the Sea of Cortez, which bathe the shores of La Paz, of course, reflect this climatic diversity: they are warm and delicious in summer, but turn cold in winter. While this does mean people don't swim in them as much, it's a change that marine life takes advantage of. For example, it allows for the arrival of the spectacular gray whales that flee from the icy waters of the Bering Strait (by the way, they travel more than 12,427 miles to get to La Paz!).
It's this privileged geographical location, far from the equator but not too far, shielded by the Isla del Espiritu Santo, with the city facing the Sea of Cortez and not the Pacific Ocean, and with hills surrounding it, that has allowed nature to create a paradise for people, but especially for the incredibly rich marine life in its waters, a spectacular marine biodiversity that even Jacques Cousteau named the "Aquarium of the World." It's also this geographical location that makes the climate of La Paz what it is: truly unique.
If you want to spot a tourist in La Paz, just notice if they are swimming in spring or wandering around at 3pm in the summer. We paceños don’t do that; we know it's risky. I've heard these words over the years, phrased differently and with various intonations, but they mark something very true: the people of La Paz know how to make the most of and protect themselves from the varying climates in this city, because they have lived here all their lives or for many years. Of course, there are exceptions, and I’m reminded of some students from a local college, who sometimes have to wait for their transportation during those peak sun hours, but generally, the people of La Paz have learned to utilize the morning and evening hours (even before dawn, getting up very early) to carry out the activities they need to do without suffering from the sun, which can be really intense. Don't get me wrong, the city doesn’t shut down during the hottest hours; everything operates, services, schools, restaurants, and of course, people are at their jobs. I simply mean that generally, locals prefer not to go outside during those hours and enjoy the air conditioning at home (which is a blessing, believe me). And if they need to go out, they do so by car, Uber, or public transport, minimizing exposure to the sun. There's a clear reason for this: the sun can be hazardous if we're not careful (hat, sunscreen, and staying hydrated), and the paceños have been doing this all their lives. So, it's better to listen to them and follow their advice on this matter.
To better explain the seasons in La Paz and which one I recommend and why, allow me to take this text I wrote for this articlebecause I believe it explains very clearly what I wish to convey on the matter:
Without a doubt, autumn, especially for those visiting this city for the first time, is the perfect season to get to know, appreciate, and enjoy it to the fullest. And there's a powerful reason for this, which is simply that... The weather isn't so hot: In autumn, the climate is very pleasant, mild, and the water remains warm too, so swimming is delightful and walking around the city is very enjoyable (Anyway, don't forget the hat, never forget the hat and to stay hydrated). This isn't the case in summer when the city experiences very hot weather and it can be overwhelming for first-time visitors to La Paz. That is, there's nothing to worry about, as long as you protect yourself from the heat, hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, and staying hydrated are things you should always have on hand here, but in summer it's even more indispensable, even for the locals, so for a first visit, we recommend coming in autumn.
So, we recommend summer for those who have already been to La Paz, or for those who aren't too bothered by the heat, because it's also a season where you can do a lot of activities both in the city and, of course, on its beaches. In this case, as the locals (we) say, it's always best to avoid the peak sun hours, between 3 and 5 pm, where we can have lunch, grab a drink, or do something indoors. I repeat, there's no major problem as long as we follow the recommendations: hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and staying hydrated. But, truly, at the risk of being repetitive, there are people for whom the heat of La Paz's summer can seem overwhelming. I remember my first summer here; it was really intense for me, not being used to this heat. I mean, we've had moments of 104 degrees Fahrenheit or more, and although the sea breeze always helps, it doesn't reach everywhere all the time, so you have to take the precautions I've already mentioned. This applies to both foreign and Mexican visitors because I've talked with tourists from Mexico City who had no idea how hot La Paz gets in the summer and thought it would be similar to the heat at other beaches in their beautiful country. Nope, here in La Paz, the summers are very hot.
If you come in the winter, prepare for a surprise—it's cold here! Not the intense cold of an American or Canadian winter, of course, but it is cold, especially in the mornings. If you were thinking of fleeing the cold to come to warm Mexico, I have bad news for you. This is the Mexican northwest, closer to LA than to Mexico City, and quite far from Cancun, so if your desire is to escape the cold to a warm climate with cold drinks, honestly, you're better off heading to Cancun, the Riviera Maya, or Mérida. La Paz is cold in winter, and the water of its seas, although beautiful and crystal clear all year round, is really cold, and the only safe way to enter during these times is with a wetsuit. But if your desire is to get to know the city itself, its museums, its cuisine, its people, and its indescribable natural beauty without wanting to swim, except maybe in the hotel pool, it's a great season to visit, because the heat won't be a bother.
In the spring, we all know that plants bloom, the weather improves, and this city looks beautiful because, even though it's in the middle of the desert, the people and authorities take care to maintain their plants and flowers to beautify their homes, streets, and medians. It's a great season to get to know the city and enjoy many activities, including swimming... but the water is still cold, not as much as in winter, of course, but cold, though it's already possible to swim without a wetsuit, and the sun starts to feel warmer. Let me share about my first time here in La Paz; I traveled precisely in the spring and visited Balandra during that season, beautiful, the colors incredible, and the water... cold. I went in, started to swim, and the first thing that hit me was a cough that lasted a couple of minutes. Of course, once my body adjusted to the temperature, I was able to swim and enjoy without much trouble, except for the occasional cough. But even in spring, the water is cold, and we locals have a saying that goes something like "if they swim in cold water, they're a tourist"... now, with a few years here, we know it's better to wait until the water is warm.
It's important to mention that all of this depends, of course, on what activities you plan to do during your visit to La Paz. That is, if you're coming to do kitesurfing in La Ventana , you should come from November to April, when the winds are strong at that beach and allow for the practice of this sport. If you're coming to see the whales, you need to come between January and April (depending on the beach). If what you want is to swim in the crystal-clear waters of this city to your heart's content, but you don't like intense heat, you should come in autumn. In other words, you need to analyze what you want to do to know the ideal season for you to visit La Paz. That said, no matter the season you come, La Paz has something incredible for you and your family all year round; of that, have no doubt.
Discovering La Paz is an unforgettable experience, its natural beauty, the warmth and friendliness of its people (there are always exceptions, of course) will make your visit a memory you'll always treasure. Depending on the season of your visit, you need to be prepared for the climate, so below I enumerate a list of tips that have served me well in my life here in La Paz, meaning they have been tested and are truly effective.
I don't think even Rambo could stand in the sun of this city in summer without a hat (or maybe, who knows), but for normal people, a hat is a must-bring to La Paz, not a baseball cap, a hat that covers the entire head area. (Applies all year round, even in winter, the sun can suddenly shine very intensely)
In many places, water is the main source of hydration, in others, it's soda (Mexico and the US have serious issues with this), and although here in La Paz, this is no exception, it is quite common for people to hydrate with an over-the-counter serum (similar to Gatorade) called Electrolito, which is sold everywhere, comes in many flavors (including sugar-free versions), and tastes delicious, so I recommend you always carry water or, even better, an Electrolito, strawberry is my personal favorite. But seriously, always stay hydrated when it's hot in La Paz (which is almost always).
I've seen tourists suffer because they forgot to apply sunscreen at the beach, with their skin red from the sunburn, and it's not pleasant. But attention, sunscreen should always be used in this city, and when I say always, I mean always, even in Winter. So don't forget to pack some or buy it as soon as you get off the plane. You'll thank me later.
In this city, the sun is very bright, so a pair of sunglasses is never too much. In my personal case, bright light causes me headaches, so I simply can't leave the house without them. But even if you don't suffer from the same, believe me, wearing dark glasses in this city is a must.
I mean, these hours can vary, but generally, they are the hours of peak sun intensity, so it's better during these hours to have lunch, go to the movies, or whatever, where it's covered and has air conditioning (almost all places here have it, including small shops or Oxxos, which are similar to 7 Eleven stores. Of course, if you're in the water, even in summer, it will keep you cool even at those hours, but always try to have some shade available, always!
Whether it's a palapa, an umbrella, a nearby restaurant, whatever, NEVER BE ON THE BEACH IN LA PAZ WITHOUT SHADE AVAILABLE.
There are places (Hi Carl's Junior) that have the air conditioning too cold, too much, it seems like it's to make people consume and leave, but in this restaurant I mention, you need to wear a jacket inside, it's really cold. Fortunately, they are few, but stay alert about it.
It's not a freezing city, but believe me, you're going to use them if you come here in the winter season. You won't wear them all the time or even every day, but if you don't pack them, believe me, you'll miss them and end up buying one or two here. You won't wear a swimsuit, but you will wear a wetsuit, unless, of course, you want to feel the very cold water on your body. (I do not recommend it at all)
Pack shorts, a light jacket (for the nights, sometimes it's necessary) and light, comfortable pants, as well as your swimsuit and sandals for the sea and everyday wear, so you keep your feet and your body cooler.
If you're on the street and feeling very hot, duck into an Oxxo (there are many), go to the movies, go to Starbucks, or simply head to the supermarket to buy anything. As I mentioned before, almost all commercial establishments have air conditioning, and this is much appreciated when the heat is such that having them nearby is literally refreshing. You can also go to a bar or restaurant, just make sure that in addition to their outdoor section, they also have a part with air conditioning.
These tips are to help you enjoy La Paz, whatever the season you visit us, and especially to protect yourself from the sun. Remember, La Paz is a true paradise, but it's in the desert; the climate is not humid but rather dry, and the sun can be very intense. However, the proximity of the sea, the infrastructure, and personal care help ensure that this doesn't become a problem but quite the opposite, allowing you to enjoy the beauty of this place without major problems.
We all know it, climate change is here and its implications are increasingly significant worldwide, and La Paz is no exception. Our beautiful city is known for its natural beauty and marine biodiversity, but it faces several challenges presented by climate change that could irreparably affect not only its environment and vast marine biodiversity but also its economy and the daily lives of its residents.
Remember that La Paz faces the Sea of Cortez (also known as the Gulf of California), a body of water rich in biodiversity, or the so-called "Aquarium of the World" (Jacques Cousteau). If the water temperatures continue to rise, this could lead to coral bleaching, affecting the reproduction of marine species and altering the food chain. This is not only an ecological concern but also an economic one, as while in La Paz, it is not a predominant economic activity, tourism is, especially marine life-related tourism.
Moreover, climate change can alter the traditional weather patterns in La Paz. This is a city where it hardly rains (in fact, when it does rain, te paceños go out to enjoy the rain in our patios, if not in the street, it's that rare), but when hurricanes occur (two in more than 15 years if I remember correctly), of course, the rain is so intense that it damages the city's infrastructure. Therefore, increases in the frequency and intensity of extreme weather events, such as hurricanes and tropical storms, are possible, which would pose a huge challenge for this city and a change in the lives of its residents, because, as I have mentioned, these phenomena are very rare here, unlike Cabo where they are more common and we have all seen in the news the damage they cause.
In La Paz, water is not abundant (not like the southeastern part of Mexico where there is a lot of water), don't get me wrong, there is water and it is always available, but we must not forget that this is a city that was wrested from the desert, a product of the effort and work of decades by the people of La Paz, so water must be highly valued. We must take into account that water scarcity is a growing problem in the world and that due to climate change it could get worse, this because as temperatures rise and precipitation patterns change, La Paz could face (like the rest of the world) serious challenges in managing its water resources, not only for its population but also for its tourist and agricultural sectors, like the beautiful vineyards that can be seen in the middle of the desert, as the plane is about to land.
So, climate change is real and it is happening, and if adequate measures are not taken, the situation will become dangerous for everyone. The beautiful city of La Paz is not exempt from this danger, like all cities in the world.
The climate in La Paz is generally warm, but as I said, be careful, there are months when the cold makes wearing a jacket necessary, and the sea water is almost impossible to enjoy due to its chilliness. As I've mentioned in other posts, we must not forget the geographical location of La Paz, to remember that the northwest of Mexico can be cold, meaning, not all of Mexico is always warm like the southeastern beaches in the Mexican Caribbean are. Here in La Paz, the climate can be a bit extreme, meaning it can be cold in the mornings, and the sun can be intense in the afternoon, so it's always recommended to wear a hat and sunscreen, as well as stay hydrated.
I would like to show a couple of tables, with official data from the Municipality of La Paz (something like the Mayor's office) that shows maximum and minimum temperatures in La Paz throughout the year. It's important to mention that these are average data; I can attest that last summer, in 2023, the temperature reached over 104 degrees Fahrenheit or 40 degrees Celsius. It was very intense and even in spring, we have reached 100 degrees Fahrenheit or 38 degrees Celsius, meaning one should not be complacent here; the sun can be intense when least expected. Indeed, the sea water in winter is very cold (swimming in it is not recommended) and in spring, although you can swim, it remains cold. The best time for swimming is undoubtedly fall and summer.
| Month | Minimum (°F) | Maximum (°F) |
|---|---|---|
| January | 55.4 | 78.8 |
| February | 55.4 | 80.6 |
| March | 57.2 | 84.2 |
| April | 59.0 | 89.6 |
| May | 62.6 | 95.0 |
| June | 66.2 | 98.6 |
| July | 75.2 | 100.4 |
| August | 77.0 | 100.4 |
| September | 78.8 | 96.8 |
| October | 69.8 | 93.2 |
| November | 62.6 | 86.0 |
| December | 78.8 | 57.2 |
| Month | Minimum (°C) | Maximum (°C) |
|---|---|---|
| January | 13 | 26 |
| February | 13 | 27 |
| March | 14 | 29 |
| April | 15 | 32 |
| May | 17 | 35 |
| June | 19 | 37 |
| July | 24 | 38 |
| August | 25 | 38 |
| September | 26 | 36 |
| October | 21 | 34 |
| November | 17 | 30 |
| December | 14 | 26 |
So, as I already mentioned, these temperatures are averages. Although these are official government figures here in La Paz, sometimes the temperature can be higher or lower. For example, in winter it can be colder than what the tables indicate, and depending on the time of day, wearing a jacket will be more than necessary. Or in summer, seeing temperatures at 3pm of 111°F or 44°C is something we have indeed experienced (that's why locals stay indoors at these times, especially in the summer—it's not a matter of fashion, but of precaution). Don't get me wrong, the city is beautiful and enjoyable in summer, but I repeat, for many people, experiencing La Paz for the first time in the summer heat can be overwhelming, especially if they come from cold climates or simply are not used to a hot climate. This comment also applies to Mexicans, especially those coming from Mexico City -I know it gets hot there-, but they are not used to THIS kind of heat. That's why I'll never tire of saying it: if you can come in autumn, it will be the best time to enjoy all that La Paz has to offer you.
The climate of La Paz is unique, its geographical location makes it unique, and although the heat can be intense in summer, in general, visiting this city is very pleasant, no matter what time of year you come. Of course, the seasons and their climates mean that enjoying the city can have different nuances, but make no mistake, coming to La Paz is something that should be done at least once in a lifetime.
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Tastes of La Paz.