Todos Santos: A Magical Small Town in Baja Sur
• Posted Aug 29 • 2024.
Just about an hour from La Paz, there’s a small but charming town called Todos Santos. Over the years, this place has earned a well-deserved reputation as an enchanting town, thanks to its combination of history, natural beauty, and a laid-back lifestyle. It’s for these reasons that the Mexican Secretariat of Tourism awarded it the official recognition of "Pueblo Mágico," a title reserved for places with significant cultural, historical, and natural wealth. So, without further ado, let’s explore it!
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Getting to Todos Santos
To get to Todos Santos, simply take the La Paz-Todos Santos highway, and in less than an hour, you'll be there. As you enjoy the stunning landscapes along the way, you can appreciate the natural beauty that has made Baja Sur such a popular and desirable place to visit and live. I recommend making a breakfast stop at a restaurant called La Garita, where you can taste delicious, authentically regional food while watching chickens roam freely around the place. The prices are really good (I’m not kidding—a full breakfast for three people costs around $25 USD). Locals from La Paz consider it a must-stop when heading to Todos Santos, Los Cerritos, or Cabo. It’s a very picturesque but comfortable place, and they also have activities for kids like bikes or playgrounds. Don’t miss out on trying it!
As you continue on the road, you’ll start to see some houses and businesses along the highway, along with much greener vegetation than in La Paz. Todos Santos is known for its much more humid climate compared to my city, so the abundance of vegetation is simply natural and adds an extra touch of beauty to this lovely town. That’s when you’ll know you’ve arrived. Don’t forget, Todos Santos is really small, and while it’s growing significantly, it’s still a place you can explore almost entirely on foot. This only adds to its charm, making it even more unique.
In Todos Santos
From the moment you enter Todos Santos on the main road until it seems to end at a plaza, it only takes about 5 minutes—it’s that small. Of course, traffic isn’t an issue here, the streets are wide, and there’s plenty of parking. You’ll know you’ve reached the town center because it’s the most beautiful part, with its flowers, trees, houses, and art galleries (of which there are plenty), and, of course, the enigmatic and storied Hotel California, where tourists always want to snap more than a few photos as souvenirs.
When people say this town has a rich historical heritage, it’s absolutely true. Todos Santos was founded in 1724 as a mission, and during the 19th century, it became an important agricultural center, taking advantage of its fertile land, abundant water, and favorable climate, especially for sugarcane production. During the prosperous period that lasted about a hundred years, many of its beautiful colonial-style buildings were constructed, many of which still stand today. Its cobblestone streets, many of them adorned, add an extra touch to its colonial and historical charm.
On the other hand, when its art scene is mentioned, it’s clear why—due to the enormous number of galleries and art and craft shops. It still seems curious to me that it looks (I’m not sure, but it seems that way) like there are more art shops than restaurants. Walking through the center, it’s easier to find a place selling art or crafts than a place to eat. You can also admire many painted walls or those showcasing true art. It’s also true that wherever you look, you’ll see some decoration, some display of art, something beautiful to take a photo of. This town exudes a relaxed, almost bohemian atmosphere in practically every corner—its streets, markets, restaurants, plazas, and shops. The whole town is magical, truly magical.
As for dining options, there are many, but you’ll see when you visit that it seems like there’s more art than food. However, you can find local food, cafes, and larger restaurants—something for every taste and budget. I can recommend Santo Chilote Fish Tacos for more local food, and maybe Oystera for something more formal. Depending on the time, they have a varied menu, and it’s a gorgeous place with a beautiful garden that’s, of course, available for events.
Now, when it comes to hotels and more, there’s a wide range of options, but I’d like to recommend something beyond the legendary Hotel California: the Hacienda Todos Los Santos hotel. It’s small, in harmony with the town, featuring cozy villas nestled in lush vegetation that will make you feel like you’re on a grand adventure, yet with all the possible comforts. The best part is, you’re just a few minutes' walk from the center of Todos Santos.
Here, I’d like to clarify something: Todos Santos doesn’t have beaches, nor is it particularly close to one, like La Paz. The beaches are about a 15-20 minute drive away. I’m pointing this out because I’ve seen a lot of advertising about the beaches of Todos Santos, but there aren’t any right in town. They’re close, yes, but if you come expecting to have a beach within a 5-minute walk from your hotel, you’ll be disappointed. That said, from this town, you can enjoy spectacular views of the Pacific.
Attractions in Todos Santos
Exploring this town—its streets, markets, galleries, plazas, and more—is undoubtedly its main attraction, but we can’t overlook some of its other tourist highlights, such as:
- Misión de Todos Los Santos: This church, located right in the heart of the town, invites you to appreciate its colonial architecture and rich history dating back to 1723 when it was founded. It’s a must-visit destination for those interested in the culture and heritage of the region because it holds the foundational stone of this beautiful town, which began as a religious mission. It’s a lovely place, and right in front of it is a beautiful plaza with decorated streets and gardens. Plus, it’s right next to the colorful TODOS SANTOS letters. A curious fact: this church’s religious shop sells refreshing drinks and offers access to its restrooms.
- Hotel California: Located just a few minutes from the center of Todos Santos, this place has a thousand stories told about it, and as is often the case with legends, truth and fiction blend until it’s hard to tell what’s real and what isn’t. The legend started when it was said that this was the place The Eagles referred to in their iconic song "Hotel California," but as far as I know, they themselves have said that’s not true. Who knows? What is certain is that it’s a very beautiful place that fits perfectly within the town’s architecture, as you can see in the photo below. Of course, it’s open to the public.
- Punta Lobos: This is an iconic beach very close to Todos Santos, with an impressive landscape of strong waves surrounded by cliffs. It’s about a 20-minute drive from the town center, and if you ask around about this beach, they’ll tell you it’s beautiful, but they’ll also warn you not to swim there because it’s dangerous. This is true—it’s a place to appreciate the stunning natural beauty, to think, to relax, but not to swim. The waves are strong, and the current is intense. For swimming, I’d recommend a beach further south called Los Cerritos.
These are, let’s say, the most touristy or most sought-after spots in Todos Santos, but that doesn’t mean you should miss out on strolling through the town, appreciating the art scattered in every corner, or exploring the smaller, less-known nooks and crannies to discover the true soul of this place.
Tips for Visiting Todos Santos
Todos Santos doesn’t have the dry climate of La Paz; instead, it’s more humid and, for many people, much more pleasant. Earlier, we mentioned the difference in vegetation between this place and La Paz, and there are also differences in the climate. Many find it much more enjoyable to walk and explore the streets here than in La Paz, but let’s not forget the following tips:
- Hat: The weather is less hot and dry than in La Paz, but it’s still very warm, and the sun is just as intense, so please, wear a hat.
- Sunscreen: Avoid the annoying burns that appear when you forget to apply sunscreen in a place like this. Trust me, you’ll be glad you did.
- Sunglasses: The sun here is also very bright, so prevent discomfort with a good pair of sunglasses to protect your eyes.
- Stay Hydrated: This is crucial—always carry a rehydrating drink or water to stay hydrated at all times. If you need a restroom, there are plenty of options, but stay hydrated.
- Take Rest Breaks: When you feel the heat has worn you out, sit down and rest, grab an iced coffee, enjoy the surroundings, recharge, and then continue exploring the town. It’s worth it.
In conclusion, Todos Santos is the perfect destination for those seeking the tranquility and beauty of a small town with a bohemian vibe and art in every corner. This isn’t the place if you’re looking for wild or extreme adventures, but rather a spot to explore at a leisurely pace, appreciate with calm, and fill your eyes and soul with memories that will last a lifetime.
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Tastes of La Paz.